Dawson onward we go!

So the road from Chicken, AK to Dawson City, Yukon Territory is unique enough I'd be remiss if I didn't share a little more. Roads up here and their condition, or lack thereof, command a lot of attention, chit-chat,  and gossip. The road off the Alaska Highway to Chicken really isn't that bad.

The road out of Chicken to 10 miles from the Canada border is something to behold. Potholes that would make a miniature golf course proud, dust that seems fresh from the Sahara, and ruts that would make army maneuvers seem like child's play.  And lest I forget to mention, between Chicken  and the border there is only wilderness save for the occasional gold mine operating at full tilt to take advantage of the long days. 15 miles out of Chicken there is a nice looking campground. We turned in to take a peek and it really looked like a great place to spend the night while sleeping with one eye open for the Bears. At the end of the campground loop we came across one of the volunteer campground hosts. She was busy planting lovely yellow flowers adding a homey feel to the place. Strapped to her hip was a large caliber handgun (does Uzi make hand guns?) in place of the more standard issue of a can of bear spray. She looked like she knew how to use it too which is why we gave her a really friendly wave lest she mistake us for ursus automobilius.

Caribou lead the way out of Chicken

After bouncing our way for another couple of hours we got to about 10 miles from the US/Canada border where we come across freshly paved tarmac as smooth as a baby bears bottom. We're so in

Some of the smoothest pavement

you'll ever find

awe we actually stop and get out of the car to touch it. Very sensual stuff. For the next 10 miles we feel we're driving on the red carpet and we're both grinning from ear to ear like complete idiots. All good things must end of course and at the border we see that the Canadians had not gotten the "let's pave this road like a proper highway" memo. To their credit the Canadians do know how to maintain a dirt road very well such that from the border to Dawson City you're averaging 40-50 mph. The border crossing claims to be the northern most you can drive through.

From the border into Dawson City the road lives up to its moniker of the Top of the World Highway as it takes you above timberline and follows the ridgeline instead of following the valley floor. The views are absolutely incredible.

The Top of the World Highway

lives up to its name

Just before you reach Dawson you have a long descent to the Yukon River. No bridge here, you have to take a ferry across which is kind of fun. The government campground is beautiful and on the shore of the Yukon opposite Dawson City.

Yukon Ferry takes us to the unpaved streets of Dawson City

Dawson City is a nice blend of touristy meets real town. People live here out of choice and because they like it here. There's a hefty mix of townspeople, tourists, and youths  (they still call them hippies up here) who come up to live in tents in the woods for the summer. I suspect they do fine until the first true Yukon cold snap. As one person told me, "If one snowflake hits me, shame on God; if two snowflakes hit me, shame on me". There's one gentleman you see bicycling around town that the locals refer to as Caveman Bill. Apparently years ago he was dared to try living in a cave on the other side of the river and yup, he's still there. Word has it he's pretty comfortable and well off as he's become something of a media darling among those trying to live and promote the minimalist lifestyle.

There's a lot of history in Dawson City and Sophie and I took advantage of the walking tours complete with interpretive guides who do a nice job of bringing that history to life. Both Robert Service and Jack London have ties to the town and there's easily a couple of days worth of things to see and do.

As newcomers Sophie and I do not quite qualify as sourdoughs (someone who has spent the whole year up here) but the Dawson folks were very warm and friendly. The Visitors Center even has free WIFI.

Beware the Sour Toe Cocktail...

Only for the very brave!

Those old miners knew how to live it up...

There's still a sense of adventure about the place. One evening we went up Midnight Dome, a mountain overlooking the town and river. While there who arrives but a paraglider who hops out of his car, sets up his canopy, and is airborne lickety split.

Needless to say, Dawson City earned a special place in our hearts and its worth the time and effort to get there even if you don't have to take a river boat!

Yup, there's still a sidewheeler operating out of

Dawson City