Catching Up

Photo by Sophie Mabry

We’ve been to the Jackson area enough times that we thought we had most of it covered but things just keep popping up that we’ve never done before so busy has been what we’ve been. We paddled String and Leigh Lakes a couple of days back and then indeed did float the Snake River from the Jackson Lake Dam. Along the way we saw another bear and an eagle decided he wanted to land on my wife’s kayak. At the last moment he veered off for the shore but my wife still had the presence of mind to snap what may turn out to be the best pic of our trip. 

I should mention that we’re putting up some of our best pics for folks to enjoy on Instagram so check them out if you’re so inclined at davidmabry8490. 

Last night we spent some time watching moose strutting their stuff in front of the most photogenic location one can imagine. Just up the trail from where the moose was munching on river grass a wedding was taking place complete with a bride decked out in a flowing white gown and groom suitably attired in a tux. All on a trail more suited to hiking boots and backpacks but the wedding party and moose had the same idea for the perfect backdrop from which to be photographed. And then on our way back to camp we saw a small herd of buffalo giving the moose a run for their money. The only thing we haven’t managed to spot is a grizzly though we’ve been hiking in some relatively secluded and supposedly prime grizzly habitat. We both carry bear spray and one always feels a tad foolish when returning to the trailhead with nary a sign of Ursus Arctos Horriblis but Mr. Murphy

predicts the one time we don’t carry our bear spray is the time we’ll see ‘ole  grizz up close and too personal. 

On a completely different note we took in a dinner theatre show in Jackson. The production was “Paint Your Wagon” which is one of my favorite musicals and the cast made up of actors from across the country did a wonderful job of bringing the story of gold fever to life and song. There’s some talented folks in these here parts and not all of them swing rope and ride horses. Oh, and the dinner part of dinner theatre was not too bad either - my wife had the bison meatloaf and it looked and smelled good enough for me to almost want to give up being a vegetarian. 

We’ve had some afternoon and evening showers lately. Not passing thunderstorms like we get in Colorado  but rain that lasts for hours which make for great sleeping weather. Temps at night are starting to creep down to the cool but not yet cold low to mid 40’s. I hear tell that the Colorado high country has already had its first taste of the white stuff but so far here there hasn’t been any snow even on the higher peaks that we’ve seen. 

Today we’re headed a little farther north to America’s first National Park celebrating it’s 150th anniversary. I can’t really remember, but I think I was in Yellowstone for it’s 100th as well when just a young lad tagging along with my folks. There’s a heightened emphasis on acknowledging the original inhabitants of this land and the Indian tribes and Park Service seemed to have formed some long overdue alliances to manage the stewardship of some of our National Parks going into the future. At Madison Junction

on the road from Old Faithful to West Yellowstone we stopped to see a celebration of native culture out on the meadow leading down to the river and it hit home that it was the first time I had ever seen a tipi actually in the Park. I’m not sure European immigrant descendants and indigenous peoples can ever fully reconcile what was a very brutal chapter but it’s heartening to see the effort being put forth by some on both sides. 

Here we are…

So, internet connectivity is still a thing, or rather not, in much of the area we've been for the last week after arriving in the Hole called Jackson. My apologies for not having followed up on my earlier blog but suffice it to say we've been busy as the beavers we see in the ponds, and yes, my better half did see not just one, but two bears, both black, and that's made for one happy camper. Since we were up this way twice last year, once in the summer and then again in the Fall I'm working especially hard to take pics and shoot video that gives a different perspective on this area than my summer video or Fall video from last year. We've gone out of our way to do and see things we haven't done or seen before and it still amazes us how much this area offers even after trips spanning more than thirty years.

Finally got up to the top of the Jackson Hole ski resort via their tram yesterday. It’s spectacular and very rugged but I think the view from the top of Aspen is the prettier and more photogenic. Still, the chance to eat waffles at 10,000 feet while taking in the wonderful view is hard to beat. We then took “The Cirque Trail” down to the Bridger Gondola. It’s only a 2 plus mile hike but the first 3/4 miles down from the summit are not for the feint of heart. As the warning sign says, it is indeed steep, there are some airy exposures, and sections call for more down-climbing than actual hiking. All the brave (or foolish) folks who read the sign and then proceeded down the trail anyway eventually admitted to being

surprised at how challenging the upper trail was. The trail winds adjacent to Corbet’s Couloir which is an almost vertical ski line down from the tram for folks looking for the quickest but certainly not the easiest way from top to bottom. I’ve never skied Jackson Hole and up until yesterday had no idea as to what I had been missing, given how spoiled we are skiing-wise in Colorado, but the terrain here is like nothing offered in Colorado and the rise from base to summit is the most of any American ski area. From the top the cars on the roads at the bottom look like they would from an airplane and in fact the planes landing at the Jackson Hole airport are actually below you when viewed from the tram summit.

Still, bear in mind, that sentinel just to the north - the Grand Teton - still rises more than 3,000 more feet in elevation so I can only imagine what the view from up there must be. 

Today we rode part of the Continental Divide route out of Flagg Ranch along the road to Grassy Lake and managed to find one of the prettiest campsites I’ve ever come across in a lifetime of searching for the perfect site to pitch a tent and lay your head. Someone was nice enough to leave not only firewood but also a fishing pole just begging to be cast into the clear blue waters below. This site

rivaled some of the sites we had along the Alaska Highway and I thought those could never be beat. 

The usual areas you might suspect as being crowded are as busy as ever (the town of Jackson, Jenny Lake, etc.) but if you step off the straight and narrow you’ll quickly find yourself standing still in the forest just listening to the sound of… silence. At one of the campground programs they put on nightly the lady ranger asked the audience what our “most special place” was. Most of the crowd volunteered specific locations - the Grand Canyon, Bryce, Yellowstone, Acadia. All truly spectacular and yes, very special places but for me its not a specific place but rather a way of being that I only have found when out, and usually all alone, in nature. Forest or desert, hot or cold, wet or dry, on land or at sea, nature offers a sense of connectedness that I have never experienced even when surrounded by people. For me there is no ‘in the middle of nowhere’ - as I tell my wife, who thinks its weird that you could stick me in the ‘middle of nowhere’ and I’d be perfectly happy, I’ve never been lonelier than when in a crowd so give me the peace and quiet of a forest glade, or the babbling of a flowing brook, or just the whisper of the wind sawing through the pines overhead, and I’ll just say thank you, thank you very much.

Tomorrow we plan on putting the kayak and paddle board to more good use. We took them for a dip on Slide Lake (a hidden gem frequented by the local bears and wolves) the other day and they were so happy they’re begging for more so who are we to argue? If we get up at the C.O.D. (crack of dawn) we might be able to beat the crowds to String and Leigh Lake. It’s been a couple of years since we’ve been on these bodies of water so its about time for another visit. And then if there’s time we can float the Snake river which is always a special treat on a hot August day. But who knows, we’ll just have to see what the morrow brings…

C.O.D.

Blogging in the elements at the
KOA in Rock Springs, WY

Having been retired for a couple of years now, there are very few things that will prompt me to wake up at the Crack of Dawn (C.O.D.). But here I am, having raised my droopy eyelids at the definitely C.O.D. time of 4 a.m. to hit the road yet again. This time bound for an old favorite - Jackson Hole - where we’ll spend a week or two at the Gros Ventre (pronounced “grow vont”) campground where we hope to visit once again with the resident moose and bear population. It was there last year that I opened the door of the men’s restroom late one afternoon and almost bonked my head on the nose of one very big moose. I’m sure I was more startled than he (yes, it was a Bull moose proudly displaying his magnificent new rack) as this was after all his home territory and I but a passing visitor, albeit one of several thousand who flock to the area each summer. We agreed that I would retreat post haste and leave said moose to continue munching on the apparently delicious foliage adjacent to the aforementioned restroom facilities. 

There was also mention among the campers of the resident bears purportedly making their way around the campground at the C.O.D. as well as in the twilight hours but we never did see Ursus  Arctos or their smaller cousin Ursus Americanus. Neither did we see hide nor hair of Jackson Hole’s most famous resident, Bear 399, and her cubs though we certainly had our eyes peeled on the lookout. Perhaps this year we’ll catch a glimpse of Ursus OfAnyKindness which would be fine by me. I know my wife was disappointed to not see any bruins on our visit to the Hole last year. Since COVID erupted we’ve seen more bears at home in Colorado - 2 at Chatfield State Park in Denver (I say “in” because it is now almost completely surrounded by suburbs) and one just a week or so ago in Aspen as we rode the Silver Queen Gondola to the top of the mountain. Perhaps the bears in the great State of Wyoming know the hunters are watching for them and are keeping a low profile as would I if I was in the sights of a high-powered rifle.

Speaking of endangered species, on our drive today (Denver to Rock Springs) I saw a sign in support of Cheney 2022 which I’ll assume was endorsing Liz and not her former Vice Presidential father Dick. Listening to the radio after crossing the Wyoming line, the airwaves were full of fairly nasty (o.k., really nasty) ads degrading Liz and supporting her opponent. Now, I’m not a Republican (or Democrat either for that matter), but history has a way of eventually recognizing the efforts of those not in favor among the masses and Liz Cheney is certainly not likely to be voted Most Popular among her own party, or at least the Republican Party that preceded Mr. Trump. But Liz, if you’re ever in my neck of the woods I’d love to take you to lunch and say Thank You for standing up for the country when its own citizens were seemingly intent on destroying it. 

Rock Springs is a good stopping place between Denver and Jackson Hole and seems to be doing quite nicely as a town. Lots of retail you’d recognize, new homes going up all over the place. Mining, Oil and Gas extraction is the main industry here followed closely by Health Care and Social Services. The population doesn’t appear to be growing very much according to the internet but does seem to be holding its own which is something compared to some other Wyoming towns that would appear to be going the way of the tumbling tumbleweeds. 

Well, the afternoon T-storms are starting to spit at me so I guess I’ll sign off for now. The raindrops feel nice on what’s been a very hot day, and even the hurricane winds that Wyoming is so famous for have a bit of a cool feel to them though it makes it difficult to hold the keyboard on the outdoor table. So unlike Liz, I’m going to duck and run for cover. Until tomorrow, stay dry my friends, stay dry. 

Where the billionaires roam

 "Oh, give me a home... where the billionaires roam... and the skies are not cloudy all day"

Isn't that the way the song goes?

Now, just to be clear, I don't get to spend a lot of time in Aspen, Colorado. At least not since, according to the local lore, the billionaires pushed out the lowly millionaires. I guess that's not so hard to understand. Heck, in my neighborhood homes that were bought for $100k years ago now command seven figure asking prices. Seems like a million just doesn't go as far as it used to.

Still, make no mistake, Aspen is a fun place to visit. If you like great scenery, both of the natural and people-watching kind, this is your place especially on a beautiful summer day. When I was a kid (a long, long, l o n g time ago) I had a chance to ski Aspen with my parents. We were up there for a hockey tournament and my folks had some friends who had a condo in Snowmass and let us stay for a day or two. Haven't skied there since but have had the chance to get there several more times during the warmer months and you sure don't have to twist my arm for any chance at a return visit. 

The Love of My Life and I set out early from the Leadville side (where some of the displaced millionaires are now setting up shop) and made our way up and over Independence Pass. Its nice to see they've made the narrowest sections on the west side alternating one-way controlled by stop lights, so no more peering around the corners to see if a car is coming your way that won't be able to squeeze by. Its a wonderful drive, though not for the faint of heart, and we passed several out-of-state cars with drivers white-knuckling their way up to the top (from the west side its the uphill-headed drivers that get the cliffside views). But what's a little gain without some pain?

We took our jaunt on a Monday planning to avoid the crowds. No such luck. Road and town were both crowded even on a weekday. Looming recessions and pandemic aftermath have done nothing to stop folks from flocking to this hub of the mega-rich to take a gander and poke their noses into store fronts featuring Gucci, Prada, and Louis Vuitton. I remember when Aspen had both a Hard Rock Cafe and a Planet Hollywood (I know, ancient history) and I once had aspirations of seeing Sylvester, Bruce, Demi, and Arnold (that's Stallone, Willis, Moore, and Schwarzenegger for those not versed in 1990's culinary fads) casually having a bite to eat at their own establishment. Sadly that never happened and both eateries are long gone. Oh well.

This trip there were a lot more young people, families with children, thirty-somethings, etc. than I remembered from past trips. Never pictured Aspen as a family-oriented destination but you had to watch your step to not trip over aspiring billionaires not too long out of diapers. The rugby field in town was full of tiny tots but not so much scrums. Trembling tykes and big burly men tossing Gilbert around do not mix, so instead the Aspen Santa Fe Ballet Company had arranged a more child-friendly performance on the green by SWAY'S Bloom that kept the crowds captivated as they "swayed" back and forth atop 15-foot tall poles. It really was something to see and if you get the chance to see one of their performances in person its worth a white-knuckle drive over a pass. 

Not remembering what the top of Aspen Mountain looks like from my hockey trip back in the '70's, my wife and I thought why not take a ride up the gondola to see what the world looks like from 11,000+ feet (I know - Independence Pass is higher at 12,095 feet but I was like, you know, watching the road). At only $33/person for a ride up the Silver Queen that's quite the deal given that the walk-up ticket price in the Winter for an Aspen ski ticket is around $200 so I couldn't complain especially after filling my gas tank for a measly $100 just to get there.

Special bonus - on the way up my wife, who loves all things bruins, watched from the gondola as a bear peeked out from the foliage and then followed us up the hill. For my wife that was one of the highlights of the day and I wasn't about to disagree. Can't report as to what the bear thought.

Once at the top the view truly is magnificent and the summit chalet (the "Sundeck" operated by Aspen’s only five-star, five-diamond hotel, The Little Nell)  features really good food and beverages. I opted for the Mushroom Veggie Burger featuring a Shitake, Quinoa, and Garbanzo bean burger which by itself was worth the ride up. Oh, and the chocolate chip cookie for dessert wasn't half bad either. And the prettiest flowers we saw in Aspen just happened to be at the top of the mountain. 

I also got to discover what all those skiers do while waiting for the flakes of Winter to make their comeback appearance. The seating options at the Sundeck really are conducive to midsummer naps.

Once back down in town it was time for some serious people watching and there's no better place to indulge than from the corner where, coincidentally, the Paradise Bakery is found. Heck, just watching the people in the long line trying to get into the bakery was entertaining. And the brownie gave the mountain-top cookie a serious run for its money. 

And lest I forget, parking in Aspen remains as fun as I remembered it to be. Ranging from $4-6/hour our 7 hour visit set me back $22 but I could easily pay that in Denver for a Rockies game. And they have made it easier to feed the meter than when I was last there - just insert your credit card into the kiosk and close your eyes. 

So that was our quick one-day visit to the town of Aspen. We would have stayed at the Little Nell but the "from $679" price tag really would have put a crimp into an already stretched Aspen travel budget. I am though already saving my pennies (yeah, right) in anticipation of the next visit. And for the cyclists out there, make sure to stop in to the Prada store. Who knew that's what fashionably dressed bikers were wearing these days. 

For some more views of our day in Aspen here's a short video: