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Friday, July 13, 2018

Icefields and more....

The trip from Banff to Jasper via the Icefields Parkway only measures a little more than a hundred miles. Normally you’d cover that distance in an hour and a half ( or faster for those of us with a lead foot!) but distance covered is not the objective when it comes to this journey. Especially if you are blessed with sunshine the drive more likely will take the majority of the day as you are constantly oohing and aahing at the magnificent scenery unfolding in front of you. This is definitely one road that beckons around each and every curve. I’ve done this trip now three times over some thirty years and this time was blessed with gorgeous weather after having waited out the rain camping on the Banff side at Waterfowl Lakes for 4 nights. And worth the wait it was as majestic mountain after majestic mountain reveals itself. These mountains only top out at about 6,000 plus feet but their ruggedness as they soar into the blue Canadian sky more than makes up for what they lack in height. And for anyone who’s hiked a Colorado fourteener don’t let the lack of altitude fool you. Most of these peaks offer challenging technical climbs compared to the trails we hike back home. And of course being this far north (52.8 degrees north compared to Denver’s 39.7) these peaks host not just summer’s lingering snows but real glaciers descending out of the high mountain valleys and capping the rugged peaks. That said, like elsewhere, global warming makes itself inconveniently known as these glaciers are in definite retreat and at the Icefields Centre they have signs along the trail documenting, year by year by year, where the glacier used to be compared to where it is now. Still the Columbia Icefield dwarfs the monster-wheeled ice buses  slowly crawling their way onto the glacier loaded full of tourists from around the world. In the video below, if you watch closely you can see these buses making their way to and fro in the background.

Crossing Sunwapta Pass, just before the Columbia Icefield, also takes you over to the somewhat drier climate surrounding Jasper. This part reminds me most of the Colorado High Country perhaps because there are more Aspen trees among the towering pines. As I mentioned, this is trip number three along this stretch of pavement and this trip makes me appreciate the first two all the more. The trip from Sunwapta to Jasper will never again be what it was, at least in my lifetime. The pine beetle epidemic which decimated parts of Colorado has now hit this region of Alberta and whole mountain valleys are awash in the brown of dead and dying trees. The pine beetle is a natural part of the environment and it’s destructive path will ultimately give rebirth to the forests but in human terms it is sad to see a whole forest ecosystem being destroyed. We’ll be visiting Maligne Lake, one of the prettiest places on the planet, to do some kayaking. Just two years ago on our way to Alaska I took what I consider the best picture I’ve ever taken halfway down this lake so I’m apprehensive about what we’ll find this trip. The Canadians don’t say much and the campgrounds and town still seem busy enough so whether it’s impacting tourism, which certainly drives the local economy, is unknown. And what with all the dead standing timber over such vast areas one can only imagine the conflagration that will come with the inevitable wildfire threat. The Banff side still seemed largely unaffected, but only time will tell.


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