Teton Moods

Having recently returned from a trip to Jackson Hole, Wyoming and the nearby Grand Teton National Park I was anxious to put together a video of our trip. I've been going to the Tetons since the '70's when I went with my dad from whom I've inherited a bad case of wanderlust. I remember my first trip and my first views of this majestic mountain range. We had come over Togwotee Pass from the then-tiny town of Dubois where we had spent the night. Though I'm now a vegetarian my recollection is that I had the best steak of my life in Dubois. Don't know if that would be true today, but the next time you pass through stop and try some of that grass-fed Wyoming beef. 

Anyway, we had come over the pass only to see nothing but clouds, grey and menacing all along the Teton range. You wouldn't have known there were mountains at all for the overcast. As the weather prognostication was not favorable we spent the remainder of that trip in Yellowstone viewing geysers and critters rather than peaks.

Of course that trip just spurred my interest in returning to catch a glimpse of the Tetons and eventually I saw them on a clear and sunny day. Back then clear days were the norm whereas today you're lucky to not see these incredible mountains through a summer haze of wildfire smoke that seems to come earlier and last later than ever before. I've driven, hiked, biked, and kayaked (and now SUP'd) through this scenery and I still think the best views are from the saddle of a two-wheeled steed. Apparently a whole lot of folks would agree with me as the number of bikes, especially those new-fangled E-bikes, were all over the Park roads.

This year our first week saw nothing but sunshine and clear blue skies. Oh, and warm - actually hot for the area - temps close to 100 degrees. While folks in Seattle sweltered through history-making heat Teton country wasn't far behind. Still I knew from experience that the clear days would not last so kept my camera busy capturing most of the shots you'll see in the video below. The wildflowers were also taking a bow on this epic stage and I'm at a loss to decide which was prettier - the snow-capped peaks or nature's flowerful pallet of color. 

Crowds there were as well but we've visited enough to know some out-of-the-way spots where peace and quiet and solitude could still be found. The town of Jackson was mobbed as is usual during the summer but locals seem to take it all in good humor. The Town Square shootout was still going on (Monday-Saturday @ 6p.m.) and though a little hokey everyone in attendance (and there were a lot of everyones in attendance) seemed to enjoy the show. And of course the Stagecoach still does laps around the Square with passengers gawking out of the stagecoach windows at all the tourists taking pictures and gawking as the stage and two beautiful horses clip-clopping slowly by. An interesting side note: apparently the same outfit that offers the stagecoach also does sleigh rides through the nearby National Elk Refuge in winter (December-April). Sounds like a heck of an excuse to mosey up that way when the flakes start to fall. 

Not unexpectedly, the wildfire smoke did make an appearance during our last couple of days. The mountains are still beautiful shrouded in the hazy mist and the smoke makes for some stunning sunsets over the Tetons. The smoke makes all the photographers work a little harder but there are still great pictures to be had. 

One day we were in Jackson and were treated to a hailstorm. I've never seen so many shorts and halter-topped tourists scramble for cover but the storm thankfully dropped the temperature a good twenty degrees and I'm sure the local stores didn't mind the sudden influx of sodden shoppers trying to get out of the wet. I was most impressed, as you'll see if you pay attention in the video, by the young cowboy who stayed atop the Stagecoach hunkered down with his steeds while gravel-sized balls of ice rained down from leaden skies. There's a reason those cowboy hats have such wide brims...

Eventually the skies lightened up, the hail that had accumulated melted, and all the would-be cowboys and cowgals streamed back out onto the wooden boardwalks. The only place I noticed that didn't see this post-storm exodus was the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar. I guess patrons there know a good thing when they drink it or perhaps they never even noticed there had been a summer downpour.

One would have thought that COVID was non-existent and the only masks that were worn were by some of the stuffed local residents. Social distancing was in full-effect however, if you count six inches as the measure instead of six feet. Looking at the license plates on the cars lucky enough to snag a parking spot around the Square I'd say most States were well represented though most seemed to come from the midwest. Same went in the campgrounds although a fair number of folks had flown in and rented their RV/Motorhomes with going rates around $2,000 for three days. One local mentioned that out at the airport they were charging $900/day for rental cars and couldn't keep them in stock. Just WOW...

So now we're back at home but if I close my eyes and don't listen for the sound of sirens, which seems to have become an integral part of Denver's soundscape, I can feel the hot wind (smell the sage?) in my hair and hear the sound of wind rustling through the prairie grasses. If I had my druthers we'd still be up there. The road that beckons is at its loneliest right after coming home, that's for sure. 

So where to next? The summers not over and I hear tell there's a border up north going to open in the next couple of weeks. Hmmmm, that itch in my gas-pedal foot might still get itched.....

The most expensive real estate in the Tetons

 My better half and I have been up in the Tetons the last couple of weeks enjoying the stunning vistas, abundant wildlife (though sadly not a single bear - grizzled or black - to be found), along with record crowds despite an ongoing pandemic in many of the places from which these folks hail from. 

A local guide at one of the favored moose-watching locations told us that May visitation to the Grand Teton National Park was up 49% from the same time a year ago. Sure, sure, I thought - last year was the height of the COVID crisis so I thought perhaps 2020 traffic to the park might have been way off. As with most things I couldn't have been more wrong - 2020 set records over 2019 - apparently Americans unable to travel overseas last year all decided to congregate in a little place called Jackson Hole and then invited all of their friends and relatives up for a repeat this year.

My wife and I have been up to the Tetons enough to know where to find the less crowded spots although even our hidden gems seemed to be attracting more people than we had anticipated. One of the lakes near the Moran entrance station is tucked back on a rough and tumble dirt road (though not 4-wheel necessary) that most tourists whiz by without even considering turning off to see this special jewel. This year the small parking lot was full though that meant about ten other cars and one full-sized RV who somehow managed to get his big rig up the narrow and twisting path only to find that the parking lot couldn't accommodate rigs a third his size. But all was well as there were sufficient black flies and mosquitos galore to more than go around the small crowd. Once out on the lake in a kayak and on an SUP the bugs tended to leave us alone so we could focus on the two bull moose we found grazing along the shore. Such is why folks head to this neck of the woods. Note to SUP'ers, do you think you can out-paddle a moose? I didn't put it to the test but I was starting to wonder...

We caught up with an old friend and his family for an afternoon in the Town of Jackson which is an eclectic blend of old west meets Gucci. Lots of famous celebs call Jackson their second, third or fourth home depending on how lofty their celebrity. Housing and real estate prices are astronomically high as you might expect but if I had a couple of million dollars looking for something to do I might be tempted to buy 40 acres (without the mule) where I could sit on my front deck and contemplate the stunning beauty of the Teton range. $10.5 million will get you a nice 4 bedroom/4.5 bath on 4.7 acres. Need a tad more space? $11.5 million puts you into a 7,263 sq. ft., 5 bedroom/6.5 bath "...set on 5.06 acres, discreetly tucked atop the ridge of Spring Creek" boasting "...unrivaled Grand Teton and Sleeping Indian views." As if there's anything discreet about a house that costs $11+ million. 

O.K. with something a little smaller? How about a 3 bedroom/3 bath 2,200 sq. ft. "cabin" for just $1,190,000? This one doesn't feature the world famous Teton views but on the plus side it sits on those 40 acres (minus the mule) I mentioned earlier. Another advantage is that you won't have to shovel that infamous Wyoming snow because its only 3 season accessible...

Perhaps the most expensive property I found was a little, and I mean little, property actually in town in the "desirable East Jackson Neighborhood". This 3 bedroom/2 Full baths 1,950 sq. ft. home is nestled on just .18 acres and can be yours, if you hurry, for just $1,195,000. Why is this the most expensive? On a per acre basis that works out to a whopping $6.6 million. The $11 million home I mentioned earlier at least sat on 5 acres which works out to just $2.2 million per. 

Needless to say my wife and I won't be moving North to Teton country anytime soon but depending on your budget you might want to consider it. The views can't be beat, you can rub shoulders with the glitterati at the local Albertsons supermarket, and you won't look out of place wearing those cowboy boots and cowboy hat you have tucked away somewhere in your closet (you know, for the week or two of the National Western Stock Show where every Denverite goes at least a little bit country). 

Anyway, there you have it on the state of real estate in Jackson, Wyoming. Me, I'm back at the Gros Ventre campground which does quite nicely in a pinch. Can I interest anyone in a S'mores?

The Manitou Incline... twice may be enough

In Manitou Springs, Colorado there's a hill and quite a hill it is. They call it the Manitou Incline and it's steep and people climb it purportedly for fun. 

photo courtesy of the Manitou Incline Basecamp

The first time I did the Incline there was still a funicular that whisked you to the top to take in the view. It ran from 1907 until 1990 until economics made it no longer feasible to operate profitably. The funicular is now just a memory and today people haul themselves up 2,700 steps (railroad ties actually) at grades maxing out at 68% to earn the privilege of then hiking three miles back down. 

Join me for a quick peek at our climb up this Colorado landmark. If you've done it kudos to you for accomplishing it. Now that I've done it both the easy and the hard way I'm inclined to have a whole lot more respect for those that set their sights on reaching the top!

Then and now...

Help is just a call away in
Victor, Colorado

On our recent trip to the Manitou Springs area we took a side jaunt up Highway 24 through Woodland Park and then up the back road to Cripple Creek and Victor. Haven't been up that way since I was a lad of fourteen or fifteen which puts it way, way back in time even before legalized gambling took over both towns as a supposed economic panacea for towns that saw their life's blood - the mines - dry up. 1991 was the year gambling became legal and sadly it does not appear to have brought boom times to either town. I know we're just coming out of a pandemic so its hard to know what the future will hold . I hope Colorado and out-of-state tourists alike rediscover this neck of the woods not so much because I'm a gambling fan but because its a beautiful area of the state with such a rich (literally!) heritage it would be a shame to see these towns turn to dust.

$11 billion came out...
Where did it all go?

The area is of course rich in western history. Before 1890 the history was largely focused on the Ute Indians but when Bob Womack finally found gold in, appropriately enough, Poverty Gulch, the rush was on. From 1890 through 1910 the area was known as the "World's Greatest Gold Camp" with more than 500 mines operating in the Cripple Creek/Victor region. Who's to argue as more than 22 million ounces of gold was pulled from the ground. That's worth, in today's dollars, about $11.2 billion. A tidy sum in almost anybody's book.

Note the credit to
"Women in Mining"

While the casinos that are still operating focus on pulling folk's hard-earned cash out of their pockets, I spent my time looking backward. There is still gold mining going on (the proprietor at what seemed to be the only gift shop in Cripple Creek told us the big Newmont mine on the hill is yielding about a $million a day) but I was curious to visit some of the relics of yesteryear. Driving over toward Victor we stumbled on the Trails of Gold, a series of walking trails that take you through some of the old mining district. Its not too steep a trail (like the Manitou Incline, but that's a story for another blog) but you might feel the altitude a tad if you're a humble mortal like me. Still, it's worth the effort and they've done a nice job with the trails, the signage, and the old mine structures. Here's a short video of some of the highlights captured on a cool day when those infamous Colorado thunderstorms were threatening to recreate Noah's flood. Thank goodness the rain held off until we were nearly back to the car but the dark skies only added to the allure of these relics of days gone by. 

So if you're ever in the area take the turn out of Divide, Colorado onto State Highway 67. The drive alone is worth it, and if you want to part with some of your cash in the Gambling Halls I guess that's fine too. But if you're like me, don't miss the chance to get out and stretch the legs on one of the Trails of Gold. Memories is what you'll find which just might make your day...

A Colorado must-see...

There are a few (actually its a pretty long list...) must-see/do things  if you’re lucky enough to spend any amount of time in Colorado. One of those just reopened, though three years ago we were wondering if it was gone forever. I’m talking about the Manitou and Pikes Peak Cog Railway which just started operating on May 21st after a three year hiatus.

Now, after a complete rebuild,  this Colorado treasure is back hauling passengers from its depot in Manitou Springs to the top of Pikes Peak in the type of comfort one might expect from the company that owns and operates it, the Broadmoor. 

The railway began in 1889 with the first train reaching the 14,115’ summit in June 1891. For those not familiar with trains, a cog railway adds a third toothed rack rail that allows the train to climb grades in excess of 10 percent, steeper than normal trains could dream of tackling. And there are some steep climbs on the hour and ten minute journey to the summit so you likely won’t be tempted to hop off and jog alongside the train as it huffs and puffs upward at a steady 8 mph. 

My wife and I rode the train this last Monday. I had booked seats as soon as I was able as I knew this would be a very popular excursion for Coloradans as well as tourists from around the world. Trains run every 40 minutes and our 9:20 a.m. train was completely full as were the other trains we passed during our trip. 

There is still snow on top but it won’t last too much longer. The old visitors center is being demolished and replaced by a new one. Change is good and I’m sure the old one was past it’s prime but having been to the summit three times now (twice by train, once driving up on the 19 mile road) since the 1970’s I’m sorry to see the old building go. Of course the new visitors center, set to open in a month or so, gives me the perfect excuse to make at least one more trip to the top in the future.

Not that you need a gleaming steel and glass building - all the views are outside and the 360 degree panorama on a clear and sunny Colorado day is spectacular and the main reason so many people set their sights on getting to the top of our State’s fifty four fourteeners. Just bring a jacket - the temp when we left the depot in Manitou Springs was a balmy 80 degrees but at the summit it was in the low forties and the wind chill was in the thirties.

There is not a bad seat on the train (seats are reserved when you buy tickets) but the best seats, if you can get them, are the three seats at the front or back of the train adjacent to the engineer as he or she drives the train. We were in the front seats going up (as you’ll see in the video below) but since the train simply backs down on the return trip the folks at the ‘back’ of the train got the best view going down. Either way, just make plans to get on board at some point, sooner rather than later, as this is one special trip. As they say in the train business - “All Aboard!”

What do you want to be when you grow up?

What do you want to be when you grow up?  That age old question seems appropriate right about now. A new crop of high school and college graduates are about to leave one world behind and enter another. It would appear to be a good year to enter the job market now that the pandemic, or at least the deaths and hospitalizations, is on the wane. This morning’s job report said 500,000 plus Americans were recently hired which bodes well for all the young folks anxious to get out there and test their skills.

I’ve reached that age when I have more to look back at than to look forward to and I realize I’ve never quite been able to answer the question of what I wanted to be. Problem was, I could never narrow it down to one thing. It’s a mighty  big world out there and despite the increasing number of constraints on folks pursuing their passions there’s always been and still are a lot of interesting avenues available for those willing and inclined to give it a try. 

The list of things I wanted to do is way too long to list here but the reality of course is that most of them remain in the realm of woulda, coulda, shoulda. I’d hazard a guess that may be true for many of you as well. One of the things I would do if granted a return visit to this beautiful blue orb is spend more time on the ocean. I’ve covered a lot of land but given the earth is two thirds water my time gazing at a wave-filled horizon has been far too limited. There’s a young couple I follow on YouTube that are sailing the world in their catamaran. Not sure how they can afford what they’re doing but they’re in Tonga (in the South Pacific) soon headed to New Zealand. I’d certainly have traded my cubicle world for what they’re doing and seeing in a heartbeat. 

I did have the chance to get out for another look at one of the active mines near Leadville. I would love to have walked Leadville at its height in the late 1800’s so it’s interesting to see that the aspirations of pulling wealth out of the ground live on today. Here’s a short peek at what’s going on at one of the gold mines:

A Classic...

 Candidly when I think of great day trips from my home in Denver Pueblo, Colorado isn't top of mind. But maybe it should be. 

Last week I was listening to Colorado Public Radio as I often do and they had a short blurb about an event happening the upcoming weekend in southern Colorado. Since it involved bicycling the story got my attention. Writing this today on another wet, cold, and dreary Wednesday (which seems to be the norm this April) I thought I'd share some of the sights and sounds from the Pueblo Classic, a new bike racing event that was all set to debut last year until something called COVID got in the way. So this year's event turned out to be the true inaugural and the southern Colorado Spring weather along with some warm Pueblo hospitality made for a wonderful breakaway (cyclists will appreciate that metaphor) from the humdrum of daily life in the ho hum Denver 'burbs. 

To most Denverites Pueblo probably conjurs up driving through a somewhat economically depressed industrial town along a stretch of I-25 running past exits that look too much like any-other-exit along any-other-highway in the U.S. The blur of big box stores and fast food offerings whipping by at 65 mph dulls you to the point where you'd most likely miss the single exit that takes you to downtown Pueblo. Much to my chagrin, I now realize I've been missing out on a Colorado gem. 

On a quiet Sunday morning we made the drive south leaving our home in Littleton at around 7 and arriving in Pueblo by 9 a.m. Parking was no problem and we had a short walk to the downtown area where the Pueblo Classic was just getting underway. There were no crowds (locals told us that Puebloans are not early risers come a Sunday morning) and we were immediately taken with how lovely downtown Pueblo is. The tree-lined main street (actually South Union Avenue) features an eclectic blend of quaint specialty shops (how about the "Bite Me Bakery"?) Arts venues ("Neon Alley which bills itself as the "greatest assembly of neon art west of Times Square and east of the Las Vegas Strip") and lots of unique eating opportunities some of which offer outdoor dining along downtown Pueblo's Riverwalk, a one mile long section of the Arkansas River that was developed into a beautiful park-like area 20 years ago and is now a wonderful place for a stroll, a run, or an outside festival (once COVID ends). 

But I digress. This day we were there for the Pueblo Classic Bike Race featuring 600 of the regions top cyclists (men/women, novice to pro, college teams - they had the full spectrum of riders covered) who would race around a 7/10's of a mile circuit course around the downtown area. In cycling parlance this is called a Criterium but for spectators its perhaps the best venue to watch a bicycle race. The individual races lasted between 50 minutes and an hour allowing spectators to leisurely walk the course while watching cyclists (as many as 60 at at time) whiz by at speeds topping 30 mph. 

I wasn't particularly focused on who won each of the races. For me a criterium is simply a beautiful representation of people in motion at their very best. Bike jerseys are colorful  as a functional item (they help motorists watch out for those pesky bikes along the roads thus keeping the cyclists safe)  but when you have a large group of riders, each wearing their own team's jersey,  it makes for a flowing stream of technicolor images flying by in a constantly changing river of color. I've put together some of the sights and sounds of Sunday's event and hope you enjoy the spectacle that is a bicycle criterium as much as I do. Oh, and the next time you're flying south through Pueblo think about taking Exit 98B and heading a couple of blocks over to the downtown area. You might be glad you did!